
Log Inoculation Procedure
Innoculation Procedure with Sawdust Spawn
When you receive your spawn examine it carefully. The bag should be completely sealed. The spawn itself should be a relatively uniform mixture of brownish sawdust with whitish mycelium growing through it. There should be no green, grey, black or other unusual areas on the spawn. The spawn you have received is at its peak for use as an inoculant. If you do not intend to use it within the next 5 days refrigerate it at 2-50C. The spawn will keep for a few months, however immediate use is recommended because as the spawn matures/ages it becomes more and ‘bound’ by the mycelial hyphae. It will become very difficult to handle and use. Cold temperature will inhibit the development of the mycelial hyphae. When the hyphal development progresses too far it can be difficult to break the spawn apart so that it is loose and friable and with a small enough particle size to work your inoculation tool and to insert the spawn into the holes in your logs; ‘bound’ spawn can be processed in a blender or food processor if necessary. However, we recommend that the spawn be used as soon as possible – within 5 days of receipt is best. If the spawn has been stored refrigerated, bring it to room temperature for a few days before using it.
Handle the spawn to minimize exposure to ubiquitous contaminants such as bacteria and especially mould spores and to prevent dehydration. Use the following rules to protect the spawn:
- before opening, wipe the outside of the bag with a dilute bleach solution and carry the bag to your inoculation site in a clean bucket; keep the bag in a cool, shaded location
- wash your hands and periodically rinse tools coming in contact with the spawn
- before opening and immediately before inoculation gently break the spawn up through the bag by manipulating the bag with your fingers; you can also shake/agitate the bag so spawn is loose and friable; the ‘grain’ size of the spawn should be quite small and it should break up fairly easily and not form clumps that are difficult to break apart; it should be moist but not wet; ‘bound’ or ‘clumped’ spawn can be pulsed in a food processor
- schedule inoculation sessions to allow enough time to completely use the spawn in a particular bag in a single session and/or remove spawn from the bag in small batches as you use it, perhaps in a clean plastic container; keep the bag closed after each removal and never put any spawn back in the bag for use later
This spawn is used to inoculate hardwood logs that were cut when dormant – after leaf fall and before leaf bud and that have rested for at least 1 month. The method described here is ‘drill & fill’ method. You need a drill with a 12.5 or a 13.5 mm (or ½ inch) bit and an inoculation tool. A depth stop on the drill bit is helpful in order to drill holes to a depth of 1 and 1/8th inches or 28.5 mm. The holes MUST be sealed with cheese or bees wax or with a Styrofoam tab to prevent spawn from drying out. Drill holes 10-15 cm (4-6 inches) apart, in ‘offset’ rows that are 5 – 7.5 cm (2 – 3 inches) apart. The holes should form a diamond pattern as in the diagram below. Extra holes can be drilled around knots or similar irregularities in the log. Drilling more holes with a larger bit will speed the spawn run; one expert recommends doubling the inoculation rate for Lion’s Mane.


Fill holes with loose sawdust spawn using an inoculation tool. You can also use a small funnel and tamping rod to insert the spawn into the holes, but an inoculation tool will speed up your work.
You can push the inoculation tool into the bag of friable spawn to fill the hollow tube, or you can place spawn in a clean, flat container to the depth of 1&1/2” so that you can push the tool into the spawn and fill it to the mark on the tube. This will give you the right amount of spawn to fill the hole. Then plunge the spawn into the hole. Do not overfill the holes – spawn should be below the level of the bark; do not pack the spawn down.
You must seal the holes as quickly as possible. Working in a team is ideal – one drilling, one filling, and one sealing; or one worker drilling and 2 workers filling and sealing (drilling is fast; filling & sealing is slower) or some other practical division of labour. You can set up a workstation that allows you to roll the logs along to facilitate the work. insert the spawn into the holes, but an inoculation tool will speed up your work.

Holes are sealed with wax (cheese wax or bees wax or mix) or with a Styrofoam cap. If using caps the drill bit size must match the size of the cap. Styrofoam caps come in rolls – simply break off individual caps with your fingers and insert into the hole. If using wax, you will need to melt it; to do this ‘in the field’ use a Coleman camping stove or a burner with a butane cylinder; use a tin can or other metal vessel in which to heat the wax. Apply with wax dobbers or with very small sponge paint brushes. Use safety precautions when using gas/butane burners.
Following inoculation, the mycelium will colonize the sapwood. During this “spawn run” stack your logs off the ground in a shaded area in a log cabin style/crib arrangement with space around each log to allow ventilation.

The ideal location for your logs during incubation/spawn run is under the forest canopy in a well-drained area with good air movement. For the first 4 weeks of the spawn run you may have to water/soak the logs once a week unless there is sufficient rainfall and/or the logs were quite moist (inside) when inoculated. Sprinkle logs for 18 to 24 hours and then let them dry out. The objective during the spawn run is to keep the moisture level inside the logs high but allow the outside to dry so as not to rot the bark off. Logs should not be exposed to full sun during the spawn run/incubation phase. During winter months keep logs shaded. Even if logs are under the forest canopy they may need to be covered with shade cloth or with some form of breathable covering (cedar boughs) so that they are not exposed to full/direct sun for hours at a time, especially during the late afternoon.

The logs will “fruit” 6 months to 1 year following inoculation depending on factors such as when logs were cut, how hard the wood is, how moist the sapwood is, and temperature and rainfall patterns during the spawn run. Fruiting generally starts the spring following inoculation (1 year later). You should be able to see mycelium showing at the end of the log in the sapwood ring – as in the picture above.
Before the logs begin fruiting they must be stood on end to allow the mushrooms to form and emerge and to facilitate harvesting.
Sources
Reading
- Best Management Practices for Log-Based Shiitake Cultivation in the Northeastern United States
- Cornell Small Farms Program
- Totem Method for Cultivating Oyster & Lion’s Mane Mushrooms
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